Thursday, July 16, 2009

Summer Stone Fruit


This is our favorite time of year at Market, not just because it’s spear fishing season, but also because of all the amazing produce that’s at its’ peak. From salads to sorbets, summer stone fruit is all over our menu right now. Currently we’re using a few varieties of peaches, nectarines, and plums from Lone Oak Ranch, an organic farm out of Reedley, California. We met these folks at the La Jolla Farmer’s Market. They grow everything from peaches and pluots to Asian pears and tangerines, depending on the season. Owner and Farmer Dale Simmons is a fourth generation farmer keeping alive the organic farming techniques taught to him by his father with the help of his sons. We’re getting both yellow nectarines and white peaches from Lone Oak. The range of flavors between yellow and white fruit is remarkable. White stone fruit tends to be sweeter and less acidic, with slight honey and vanilla undertones, while yellow fruit is more tart, with a slight floral quality.

Nowadays stone fruit can get confusing with hybrids like apriums, pluots, nectarcots, and plumcots. If you don’t know what these are, don’t worry…my spellcheck doesn’t even recognize the words. It’s almost impossible to keep up with all of the different varieties once summer is in full swing. You may ask yourself, “Whatever happened to the old fashioned peach, plum and apricot?” The truth is, hardly any of the fruit that we see today is the original version of itself. Horticulturists are constantly creating different hybrids to withstand the ever-changing climate and environment. Some of these varieties have such short seasons, it’s no wonder they’re virtually unknown.

Some tips for choosing and using summer stone fruits:
*The flesh should be firm, but not hard, giving slightly to gentle pressure.
*The skin should be tight, not saggy or wrinkly. This signifies fruit that was
picked too early.
*Fruit should seem heavy for its’ size.
*Let fruit ripen on counter until soft, then store in the refrigerator.
*If it’s ripe, you should be able to smell it without cutting into it
*To easily cut fruit in half: Using a pairing knife, cut on the opposite side
of the seam, and twist to release the pit.

Summer Stone Fruit with crispy Bacon and Goat Cheese
Serves 4

¼ cup Banyuls Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
2 Santa Rosa plums
1 White Saturn Peach
1 yellow nectarine
¼ cup candied almonds (recipe follows)
2 loosely packed cups wild arugula
2 loosely packed cups mache (available at Whole Foods)
6 large basil leaves, chiffonade
4 strips crispy bacon, crumbled
4 oz. crumbled goat cheese, such as Bucheron
salt and pepper to taste

Wash and dry greens. Slice fruit into 6-8 wedges each, depending on the size of the fruit. Toss greens, fruit, nuts, vinaigrettes, and basil in large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Divide onto four plates. Top with crumbled bacon and goat cheese. Garnish with extra virgin olive oil. Serve immediately.


Banyuls Vinaigrette
Makes about 1 cup

¼ cup Banyuls Vinegar
1 TBSP water
2 tsp Dijon mustard
½ shallot, minced
¾ cup olive oil or vegetable oil
salt and pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients in a bowl except oil. Whisk to combine. Slowly pour olive oil in a steady stream, whisking to slightly emulsify. Adjust flavor with salt and pepper. This can be stored in the refrigerator, covered for up to 10 days.

Candied Almonds
Makes 1 cup

1 cup sliced almonds
1 egg white
½ cup super fine sugar (also known as baker’s sugar)
1/8 tsp cardamom
pinch salt

Mix all ingredients until sugar feels dissolved. Lay in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with a nonstick liner or parchment paper. Bake 25 minutes or until slightly brown and crispy. Store at room temperature in airtight container.

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